Veteran's Day Surf: Juan Ponce Park Melbourne Beach

Dad's post surf-session weight 242.5 lbs

Feeling stronger, thinner, more agile; even though the weight has not come off as expected but at least it is coming off.

Kids were off school, so, you know how it goes. Eldest daughter had soccer practice and I was the designated driver so we had to wait for the afternoon session, at high tide.

Our favorite spot is Juan Ponce De Leon Park, south Melbourne Beach a few miles north of Sebastian Inlet.

Wind was offshore, at times 10 to 15 miles per hour it seems, out of the southwest. We have this swell out there right now, sets are around six feet or so. With the offshore wind and the high tide, you get the picture.

There are nicely shaped waves, but, you've got to paddle your ass off to stay in them for the pop-up, and the drift is pretty heavy to the north.

Tired of watching him out-paddle me to the south and him mixing in with all the rippers, I walked up on the beach and watched for a moment with my longboard beside me.

Just to the south of the dune walkover, about 150 yards, I started to notice every ten to fifteen minutes a nice set would come in and start breaking on that outside bar.

I paddled around everyone then headed outside positioning myself between my two favorite phone poles on A1A. I noted where the foam made a nice runway from the last wave just feeling the bottom.

It wasn't long waiting for that overhead set to come rolling in. I dropped in late, carved down the face,leaned back on the Walden 10.0 and used the tail like a short board, snapped the top dropped back down into the wave walked all the way out to the nose got semi barrelled on the inside. The best wave of the day.

Even he couldn't pretend he didn't see it.

Veterans Day: when you're a veteran at this, sometimes you don't have to be a ripper to show your kid a thing or two.

What do I hope Sean learned from watching this demonstration: and it wasn't over, I was back out, posted up to that spot again, and I did it four more times.

I hope he learned to watch the water, not the crowd. Get in tune with and key off of it, not what everyone else is doing. Even a fat ass like me can look good on a wave every now and then.

Still considering a stand-up. I have to say with that breeze coming up the face today, it would have definitely been cool to have a SUP to capture the ubber outside.

The journey continues.

Bless all the men and women who have served to keep us free.